Step-by-step, tunisian in the round

For my second experiment with a Tunisian in the round can cozie, a made only one minor change for the base.  This time, I worked in a spiral from the start.

I also decided to do with one in stockinette stitch.



Where the simple stitch is worked from right to left around the front vertical bar, the stockinette stitch is worked from front to back, in between the front and back vertical bars.  The finished result looks very much like the knit version.

To work in the round, only a few loops of yarn A are placed on the hook at a time.





The work is then turned and slip to the other end of the hook.  The loops are then worked off the hook using yarn B until only 2 or 3 loops of yarn A are left on the hook.







The work is then turned again, slid back to the opposite hook, and yarn A is picked up again to work several more loops back onto the hook.  In this photo, you can see the front loops of the last round of sc in the base.




As the piece is worked, the first few rounds seem very wide and bowl like.  After an inch or so, it starts to take on a more upright shape.  The vertical rows created by the stockinette stitch give it a bit more structure than the simple stitch did.



A view of the inside.



Another view of the outside.  Note the distinctive Tunisian crochet curl at the top.



I used a can to determine when to stop.  For this project, I stopped just a bit short of the final hieght I was after.





An inside view of the last round, uncurled as much as I could.





This time I did a round of sc at the top, working the stitches in the same space I worked the stockinette stitch through, using only the primary colour yarn.




Which looks like this on the inside.





The final round of sc was done using both colours of yarn on the hook.





Which looks like this on the inside.






Then I flipped it inside out to sew in all the loose ends.










The finished cozie. 


Final conclusion: For a can cozie, there are a couple of things I might do different.  I would probably stick with the 6.00 mm hook for the body, but the top is a lot looser than I like.  If I did it again, I would use a smaller hook for the last two rounds at the top.  I might prefer to do the whole thing in a smaller hook, as the cozie is more flexible than I like.  It's more likely to collapse when putting a can into it without using a second hand to hold it open.  On the other hand, this makes it more versatile for use on drinking glasses, which might flare wider at the top or be slightly wider and a pop can, or for small water bottles.


The finished fabric is quite a bit thicker than using a regular hook.  Which would be a plus (better insulation) or a minus (uses quite a bit more yarn), depending on what you're after. 


I do like the look of it, and working in the round does eliminate the lean to one side Tunisian usually has.  It does still curl, but not as much as flat work, and can be easily remedied without blocking.


There is a finicky factor when working in the round, since only a few stitches can be worked at a time before it has to be flipped to the other end of the hook.  This would be less of an issue if doing something larger, like a cap, since more loops can be worked onto the hook.


I like it.  Enough that I'll probably make more of these, or try some other experiments.

Experimenting; tunisian in the round

For some reason, I'm increasingly interested in Tunisian stitch.  I'm really enjoying the double hook crochet, but I don't quite know what's attracting me about Tunisian.  The stitch's habit of leaning way off to one side and tendency to curl irritate me.  The double hook technique eliminates that.  Yet, I can't help wanting to explore the method.

Which lead me to working on Tunisian in the round.  A double hook is required, but the piece isn't turned like double hook crochet.  Here's my first experiment.  A can cozie (because even in experimentation, I must make something useful... *L*) done in Tunisian simple stitch.  (I'll be posting a step-by-step with a different stitch later.)





In picking the yarns, I just grabbed two of the same type of yarn - some Handicrafter Cotton - that wasn't being used for something else, which had me using a variegated yarn with a yarn made up for 4 different coloured strands.  I thought it would be pretty horrid, but the nature of the stitch seems to have made it a lot nicer than I expected.

The cozie is topped with a round of slip stitch worked into the same vertical post that the Tunisian simple stitch (tss) is worked into.  Aside from giving it a more finished look, it got rid of the curl.







I started by making a simple disk to the size needed.  Usually I make my cozies with a 3.50mm hook, as the small size makes for a strongly self-supporting shape.  My double sized hook (I only have the one) is a 6.00mm  Starting from 8 sc into a 4 ch ring, getting the size I needed meant increasing to a round of 32 stitches, instead of my usual 40 stitches with the smaller hook.  When it came time to work up the sides, I used the back loops only to get it started. 



I worked the sides up in a spiral.  Here, the top of the cozie is flipped to show what the inside looks like.

I was rather pleased with how it turned out.  The resulting cozie is a lot softer and floppier than I like for the use I'm putting it to.  For that, I'd go with a smaller hook and the same yarn.  I just don't happen to have one.

With this one under my belt, I decided to make a second one and take photos as it progressed.  Time to go start on that. :-)

Simplicity Itself Reading Jacket

A number of years ago I was talking to my mother in law about crafting, crochet and some of the different things that were popular over the years. She described to me a garment called a reading jacket that was like a shawl or stole, but extended to a cuff at the wrists. Not too long ago I found a pattern that was very much like she described and I made it for her. I don't have a photo of it, but it consisted of making a rectangular stole, then closing up the short sides with a cuff worked in rounds. I finished it with a ruffled edge. Getting the cuff the right size was a pain in the butt, and I figured there was an easier way to do it.

The result was simplicity itself.

First off, the yarn.

I went with James C. Brett Marble Chunky in Adobe. It took about 1 1/2 balls (200g) to complete the piece. It's a 100% acrylic, machine washable yarn with a wonderful feel. Absolutely gorgeous to work with. I choked a bit at the price of $15.99 per ball (what can I say... I'm a miser. ;-) ), but it was totally worth it!

Being a chunky yarn, I went with a size N/9.00 mm hook and started with a foundation chain of 60 inches. For the first row, I worked 10 sc for the cuff, then switched to dc until the last 10 stitches, where I switched back to sc.

The remaining rows were worked into the back loops only, sc into sc and dc into dc, until the cuff measured about 8 inches. It was more important to finish with an even number of rows than get an exact measurement. This is how it came out.





Like I said, simplicity itself.



The seam of the cuff was worked so that it would be hidden in a "valley" on the right side. I lined up the stitches and whip stitched the sc area, plus 3 dc stitches.

I had considered working a contrasting row of stitches around the edges, but as we looked at it, we all thought it was just fine the way it was. Here are some different views of it.













At this size, it would fit most adults, however it would be easy to customize for size, width and different yarns.

To customize the length, drape a tape measure over the shoulders where the wrap will rest and measure from wrist to wrist. Work the foundation chain to that length. Likewise, measure around the wrist to adjust the cuff size. Adjust the number of sc stitches to whatever width you'd like the cuff to be.

If you'd like it wider over the shoulder, use a smaller hook when working the cuff than the body.

Once the cuff is sewn closed, try working a contrasting colour around the edge in sc, working 2 sctog at the seams.

For a simple ruffle, start with a round of sc along the edge, starting near the cuff seam and working sctog at the seams. In the second round, work a few sc close to the seam (remembering to do 2 sctog at the seam), then a few hdc, making sure the number and type of stitches match on either side of the cuffs. Part way up the arm (wherever you'd like), switch to [dc, ch 1 dc] into each sc of the previous round.

A gift

shawl0215-50%
Originally uploaded by amkb
While traveling recently, I'd brought along my project bag to finish a shawl I was making for my MIL, only to discover I'd forgotten the baggie I keep my tools in - so I had my yarn and the one hook that was in use, but I was supposed to change hook sizes later on, and I no longer had the other hook - nor any other hooks. Neither did I have my tape measure, scissors, needles, etc. So we swung by a store en route and picked up what I needed. I also picked up some extra hooks and an oversized (300g) ball of Bernat Chunky for my younger daughter.

We stayed with family in Winnipeg, and when I dug out my project bag and worked on the shawl, I got questions about what I was making from my niece and nephew. Later on, my younger daughter offered to make a shawl for her cousin. She finally finished it a couple of days ago.

This was made using the entire ball, plus she claimed some Lion Brand Homespun from my stash for the edging, because her cousin mentioned she loved purple.

Now we just have to mail it. :-D

Redirect...

No crafty photos today.  This is why.

Slowly getting back...

I just wanted to write up a quick post to let folks know I will slowly be getting back into the swing of things.  I don't know when I'll be doing another Feature Friday at the moment, but I do have a few crafty things coming up to write about in the next while.

Thanks for your patience.

A pause

I'll be taking a bit of a break from blogging here in the next while.